Fromista, Carrion de los Condes and On to Moratinos

Continuing across the farm belt that is the Meseta, we pass golden fields of cereal crops that are in the middle of fall harvest. The terrain is mostly flat, with little of interest to break the monotony other than a random herd of sheep moving from one pasture to the next, or a grove of aspen trees gleaming in the early morning sun.

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In Carrión de los Condes we stayed at the centuries old Monestario de San Zoilo, once a monastery and now a luxury hotel (price is relative, as we paid about $100 for our room) and restaurant. The hotel is vast, with well appointed rooms, restaurant and separate bar, library, comfortable seating areas and rooms that open up to a common courtyard. To our surprise, there is also a large museum showcasing some of the history of the monastery, including excavated foundations and burial vaults, and, of course, a gift shop.

The hotel obviously caters to curious travelers and pilgrims these days, but the feeling of sanctuary, peace and quiet prayer resonate off the ancient walls.

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Behind our albergue in Moratinos was a curious mound of grass covered earth, with oaken doorways and dark caves, resembling the subterranean homes straight out of “The Hobbit”. There was even a bar set up to serve the locals and visiting pilgrims.

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One of our favorite breakfast foods in Spain is simply a piece of bread, lighty toasted, with a drizzle of olive oil, and covered with freshly pureed, ripe garden tomatoes. That, along with a cafe con leche, is heaven, and enough motivation to keep us walking.